A marquise diamond is an elongated elliptical diamond cut with two pointed ends. The name comes from the French "marquise" — a title of nobility between duke and count — and the cut is said to have been commissioned by King Louis XV of France in the eighteenth century, reportedly to resemble the shape of the lips of his mistress the Marquise de Pompadour. Whether or not this history is accurate, the marquise cut has been associated with elegance and drama in fine jewellery for centuries.
FACE-UP SIZE: The marquise cut has the largest face-up surface area per carat of any diamond cut. A 1 carat marquise diamond covers more finger area than a 1 carat round, oval, cushion, or any other shape. This makes the marquise an outstanding choice for buyers who want maximum visual ring per carat of diamond weight.
MARQUISE vs OVAL: Both are elongated and finger-flattering. The oval has softly rounded ends; the marquise has sharp pointed ends. The marquise is more dramatic and historically distinctive. The oval is more contemporary and universally flattering. The marquise looks larger per carat than an oval.
THE DUTCH MARQUISE: The Dutch marquise is a wider, fuller proportion of the marquise cut — typically a 1.5:1 length-to-width ratio compared to the standard 1.75:1 to 2:1. The Dutch proportion gives a softer, more vintage-influenced look that some buyers strongly prefer.
BOWTIE EFFECT: Marquise diamonds, like oval diamonds, can show a "bowtie" — a dark, shadow-like area in the centre of the stone that occurs when light is not fully returned through the table. A well-cut marquise will minimise the bowtie to a subtle, acceptable shadow. A poorly cut marquise will show a prominent black bowtie that significantly affects the appearance of the stone. Always inspect a marquise diamond in person or via high-quality video before purchasing.
V-TIP PRONGS: The pointed ends of a marquise diamond require special "V-tip" or "claw" prongs that cup and protect the sharp points. These are more vulnerable to chipping than any part of a round or cushion diamond, so prong condition and quality are particularly important for a marquise diamond ring.